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Betta tankmates | 6 species that can be kept with Betta fish

March 6, 2017
betta tank mates

One question that comes to the minds of many (new) Betta fish owners is whether it’s possible to get a few friends for their fish. After all, doesn’t one single betta with an entire aquarium to itself eventually become awfully lonely? Although there are a few options when it comes to Betta tankmates, your fish is actually just as well (or even better) off without them.

Keep reading for the do’s and don’ts of Betta tankmates!


Note: Contrary to popular belief, Bettas (Betta splendens) cannot be kept in bowls. They need an aquarium of at least 5 gallons (19L) to thrive. For more information about Betta care have a look at the Betta fish caresheet.


How to choose Betta tankmates

When choosing tankmates to keep your Betta company, keep in mind that these fish don’t actually need company. They don’t care if they’re alone; if you add other fish or inverts that’s solely for your own entertainment. In tanks under 15 gallons (57L), avoid adding other fish entirely.

Betta fish also often don’t want company. Although aggression levels vary between fish, both males and females are generally quite territorial, not to mention carnivorous. They will attack anything that looks too much like another Betta and some will view anything small as a yummy snack. At the same time they are also rather timid and vulnerable, which means they are easily stressed out by anything that moves too fast, is too colorful or wants to nip their fins. Lastly, they require relatively warm temperatures that are just a little too toasty for many other species and don’t do well in hard water with a high pH level.

All this means that there are a lot of bad Betta tankmates: any fish or invertebrates that are colorful, fast, aggressive or need different water values should be avoided, which is unfortunately the majority of species in the aquarium trade. Combining your Betta with these fish and inverts can lead to stress, aggression and even death in some cases.

Like a boss

An example of a very stressed Betta; note the stress stripe on his side. Like a boss by gibbyson4

Bad Betta tankmates

Many species that fall into one of the four categories listed above (colorful, fast, aggressive, need different water values) are marketed as good Betta tankmates even though they’re not. So which fish should you avoid?

  • Other Bettas. This includes multiple females! Although increasingly popular, Betta “sororities” are actually a poor choice and at risk of fatalities.
  • Schooling fish (most). Yes, that includes popular choices like white cloud mountain minnows. These in particular are actually bad Betta tankmates as they are too active and need much cooler temperatures. Also includes neon/cardinal tetras (too colorful) and livebearers like guppies and mollies (too colorful and active).
  • African dwarf frogs. Another very popular choice, African dwarf frogs are easily outcompeted for food and might be nipped at. They’re better for a single species setup!
  • Ghost shrimp. Although some shrimp work well with Bettas, ghost shrimp are known to be able to damage your fish.
  • Goldfish. Goes without saying. These grow much too large and need cold water.
  • Cichlids. Colorful, aggressive, active, large. Nope!
  • Gourami. Although they are actually cousins of your Betta splendens, gourami fish are not a good choice. The two species will most definitely see each other as rivals.

Even if a species is not on this list, take a long hard look at it before you even consider adding it to your Betta tank. The best option is to just choose a species from the list below.

Betta splendens (Betta)

Dwarf gourami (background) are a very poor Betta tankmate choice. Betta splendens (Betta) by Bernat Arlandis

Good Betta tankmates

So, you’ve found a fish or invertebrate that is not colorful, very active, aggressive or in need of different water values? Great! As long as it’s suitable for your tank size it might be an option. But always keep in mind: when in doubt, just don’t.

The species with an asterisk (*) are fish I’d personally avoid just in case but have been reported to work in many cases.

  • SnailsProbably the best option as long as your Betta doesn’t like to nip at their antennae. Nerites, Malaysian trumpet snails, assassin snails and mystery snails (the latter are only suitable for tanks of 15 gal/57L and up) should work.
  • Shrimp (except ghost shrimp). This is a bit of a hit and miss because many Bettas love themselves a shrimp snack. If there are plenty of hiding places in the form of plants and shrimp flats, dwarf shrimp like red cherries or Amano shrimp might work.
  • Kuhli loachesIf your aquarium is suitable for them these are an alright option. They spend a lot of their time hiding and shouldn’t interfere with your Betta.
  • Otocinclus catfish. An alright option, but only for experienced aquarists. These are extremely fragile and sensitive to bad water values.
  • Corydoras catfish. Also an alright option, although these are pretty active they stick to the bottom water layer. Pygmy Corydoras are especially appreciated for Betta tanks, but always be careful.
  • Harlequin Rasbora, ember Tetra*. Calm, not too colorful schooling fish. This could work, but I personally wouldn’t take the risk.

Keep in mind that even if you choose a fish or invert from this list, it might not work with your Betta. Always have a plan B in case of aggression or stress (a back-up tank or a place to rehome fish to).

Assassin snails make good Betta tankmates. Photo by Melissa


If you have any more questions about tankmates for Bettas or want to share your own experiences, don’t hesitate to leave a comment below!

Cover photo: Betta by chunso.


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2 Comments

  • Reply Jack Davis March 6, 2017 at 4:09 pm

    I love this article! I’ve bred and kept bettas for years, and can testify that as long as care is chosen, they can not just survive but thrive in community tanks. The lists here are, though incomplete, highly accurate from my experience. I especially agree that gouramis and goldfish are bad, and loaches are good, but I would add non-fantail guppies to the list of good. That’s actually my primary reason for initially using bettas in community tanks – a non-aggressive predator that helps in the guppy breeding process. – guppy populations who feel threatened by predators will produce more, though slightly smaller babies.
    Even there though, I again urge great caution. I never leave females in when they are nearing birth time, as they can become aggressive. Aside from that, the only time I have ever seen a betta get attacked by a guppy was one time I dropped some guppy fry in one of my solitary bettas, and the fry, I kid you not, started going after the betta instead of vice versa. It was pretty funny, and in the end, Mr. Betta won handily.

    • Reply Mari March 6, 2017 at 11:28 pm

      Glad you enjoyed the article and thanks for sharing. 🙂

      I left guppies, even non-fancy ones, off the list because of their preference for harder water and active nature. While you might have been succesful with them I wouldn’t feel comfortable recommending the combination to other fishkeepers. If great caution is necessary (as you describe) then the risk is just too high for me personally and it might be especially problematic for new fishkeepers.

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